« Downshifting » and « Back to basics » are buzzwords among successful people who had had enough of the limitations of a corporate ladder.
For most, it remains only a dream but some have the courage to act on their hearts'desires. For instance, Jorg Hysek, Valerie Ursenbacher and Fabrice Gonet of the 3-year –old brand HD3. In a white stone house surrounded b a vineyard perched high on a hill in the tranquil village of Luins, Switzerland, the design trio has found the perfect spot to combine limitless creativity and calm.
- We have worked for the big companies. Now we want to have fun at work, says Hysek as we walk past the vines overlooking the lake.
- By the way, it is still an active vineyard. We renit it out to a winemaker, and we make sure to get a few bottles ourselves. Then we can give a bottle of wine to our customers with their name on it if they come for a visit.
The three have worked together for 19 years, and before that Jorg spent four years with Rolex and has also designed prominent pieces for brands like TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin, Cartier and Seiko. Not bad for an ex-sculptor who turned to design because he couldn't make a living as an artist.
Fabrie Gonet came to Jorg as a 17-year-old and they have worked together ever since, and Valerie Ursenbacher, former head of the Hysek styling department, joined Hysek 19 years ago.
- We have all worked with the big clients where financial decisions can be stifling, as they don't allow creativity because of production cost, says Gonet.
Hysek agrees :
-But now we have no pressure and a good feeling, which fosters creativity.
If you work in a big company you lose that.
Than't why we have a limit of 10 people in the company. People want us to be bigger and produce more, but we say no.l Besides, because of the wine cellar we couldn't fit more that 10 staff in the house. Individual Team Members
The first three HD3 pieces, Idalgo, Bi-Axial and Raptor, were individually signed by Jorg, Fabrice and Valerie.
- But we always work together. We talk all the time and give each other criticism. So it wasn't difficult to make a watch together, says Ursenbacher about Three Minds, one of the latest creations.
You have had advanced movements in the other models but with the Three Minds you used a standard ETA movement. Why?
We wanted to have a good engine and built on top of that, rather than starting for scratch. It's easier to make a racing car with a BMW engine rather that building it from nothing.
As a designer you can do anything, it is frustrating that we have to wait for the technology. And trating that we have to wait for the technology. And it is expensive to develop, and sometimes difficult it is expensive to develop, and sometimes difficult when you are looking for partners, says Hysek.
For instance, HD3 has approached Ericsson but never heard back despite several emails. But they are interested in researching whether the evolution of mobile phones somehow could enter the world of high horology.
I think you can incorporate computer technology in high-end watches without losing the fun of the mechanics. Just look at the Formula 1 cars, says Hysek, who is definitely the most talkative of the three. True Designers
- With a computer it is so easy to make something cheap and claim that it is good design, for instance a pen with a rubber top. You can also make a presentation that looks good, even if the product is not good. That is the real danger for the design world – producers abusing the word design, saying it is design when it is not. No, real design costs money, because it takes time to develop, says Ursenbacher, and pauses before continuing.
- Either you understand that, or you don't.
Se shrugs her shoulders. The three are all strong believers in designing the classical way, with real sketches and paintings.
- The computer should only be a tool, it's in the hand drawings the personality shows, says Gonet. Limitless ideas
Hysek's love of technology also shows when he goes on holiday with Ursenbacher, who is also his partner in a romantic sense.
- We love to go sailing, but when we crossed the Atlantic I brought three GPS units. If you only brought one and it broke down, then you would be lost. I don't know how to use a … what do you call it ? Sextant?
- Yes, a sextant. I go for a GPS !
The company is also sailing across the big ocean of becoming a manufacture. But at the moment the design comes first, as they want to maintain their good relationship with for instance, BNB and ETA.
So far, including the new pieces presented in Geneva in 2008, HD3 has made six models, all in limited numbers. The plan is to present at least two new models per year, also in limited editions.
- Last year we made 220 pieces. 500 will be the limit, says Gonet. What is the biggest strength of HD3?
- That we have a close relationship with the client, because of our small numbers, says Hysek.
- And we want to become better in relations with the final clients, adds Ursenbacher.
That is one of the reasons why HD3 designs are pieces of art – literally. The trio are exhibiting enlarged, hand-painted design sketches in five cities on three continents.
- It is fun for clients to see the paintings. But it also really shows that there is no barrier between art and design for us, says Hysek.By Anders Moldig - Plaza Watch, no 05/2008
- We have worked for the big companies. Now we want to have fun at work, says Hysek as we walk past the vines overlooking the lake.
- By the way, it is still an active vineyard. We renit it out to a winemaker, and we make sure to get a few bottles ourselves. Then we can give a bottle of wine to our customers with their name on it if they come for a visit.
The three have worked together for 19 years, and before that Jorg spent four years with Rolex and has also designed prominent pieces for brands like TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin, Cartier and Seiko. Not bad for an ex-sculptor who turned to design because he couldn't make a living as an artist.
Fabrie Gonet came to Jorg as a 17-year-old and they have worked together ever since, and Valerie Ursenbacher, former head of the Hysek styling department, joined Hysek 19 years ago.
- We have all worked with the big clients where financial decisions can be stifling, as they don't allow creativity because of production cost, says Gonet.
Hysek agrees :
-But now we have no pressure and a good feeling, which fosters creativity.
If you work in a big company you lose that.
Than't why we have a limit of 10 people in the company. People want us to be bigger and produce more, but we say no.l Besides, because of the wine cellar we couldn't fit more that 10 staff in the house. Individual Team Members
The first three HD3 pieces, Idalgo, Bi-Axial and Raptor, were individually signed by Jorg, Fabrice and Valerie.
- But we always work together. We talk all the time and give each other criticism. So it wasn't difficult to make a watch together, says Ursenbacher about Three Minds, one of the latest creations.
You have had advanced movements in the other models but with the Three Minds you used a standard ETA movement. Why?
We wanted to have a good engine and built on top of that, rather than starting for scratch. It's easier to make a racing car with a BMW engine rather that building it from nothing.
As a designer you can do anything, it is frustrating that we have to wait for the technology. And trating that we have to wait for the technology. And it is expensive to develop, and sometimes difficult it is expensive to develop, and sometimes difficult when you are looking for partners, says Hysek.
For instance, HD3 has approached Ericsson but never heard back despite several emails. But they are interested in researching whether the evolution of mobile phones somehow could enter the world of high horology.
I think you can incorporate computer technology in high-end watches without losing the fun of the mechanics. Just look at the Formula 1 cars, says Hysek, who is definitely the most talkative of the three. True Designers
- With a computer it is so easy to make something cheap and claim that it is good design, for instance a pen with a rubber top. You can also make a presentation that looks good, even if the product is not good. That is the real danger for the design world – producers abusing the word design, saying it is design when it is not. No, real design costs money, because it takes time to develop, says Ursenbacher, and pauses before continuing.
- Either you understand that, or you don't.
Se shrugs her shoulders. The three are all strong believers in designing the classical way, with real sketches and paintings.
- The computer should only be a tool, it's in the hand drawings the personality shows, says Gonet. Limitless ideas
Hysek's love of technology also shows when he goes on holiday with Ursenbacher, who is also his partner in a romantic sense.
- We love to go sailing, but when we crossed the Atlantic I brought three GPS units. If you only brought one and it broke down, then you would be lost. I don't know how to use a … what do you call it ? Sextant?
- Yes, a sextant. I go for a GPS !
The company is also sailing across the big ocean of becoming a manufacture. But at the moment the design comes first, as they want to maintain their good relationship with for instance, BNB and ETA.
So far, including the new pieces presented in Geneva in 2008, HD3 has made six models, all in limited numbers. The plan is to present at least two new models per year, also in limited editions.
- Last year we made 220 pieces. 500 will be the limit, says Gonet. What is the biggest strength of HD3?
- That we have a close relationship with the client, because of our small numbers, says Hysek.
- And we want to become better in relations with the final clients, adds Ursenbacher.
That is one of the reasons why HD3 designs are pieces of art – literally. The trio are exhibiting enlarged, hand-painted design sketches in five cities on three continents.
- It is fun for clients to see the paintings. But it also really shows that there is no barrier between art and design for us, says Hysek.By Anders Moldig - Plaza Watch, no 05/2008
