The perfection is a collective ideal

Twenty years after creating his own company, Christophe Claret continues to launch each new project like a challenge and to pursue it exactly as one would seek to fulfill a dream, meaning with passion and perseverance. Consistently upping the ante in terms of complications and pushing the limits of what is deemed possible, he gives life to magical striking watches, automatons and extraordinarily sophisticated and innovative mechanisms. The series are limited and some are even one of a kind.

Incorporated within the Soleil d'Or mansion where they occupy newly built premises, the production workshops are able to perform the entire range of operations required to make grand complication models. Generally dedicated to the service of the industry's greatest brands such as Jean Dunand, Guy Ellia, Ulysse Nardin or Harry Winston, the Manufacture maintains an exceptional capacity for innovation and a maximum of autonomy by using ultra hightech machinery that is customized and defined to its own often non-standard specifications.

2009 is thus a jubilee year in the history of Christophe Claret SA, a milestone that the owner wished to symbolize by releasing an exclusive timepiece produced under the company's own name and distributed by the finest retailers. Named DualTow, this singlepusher planetary-gear chronograph with striking mechanism and tourbillon houses several inventions, including a patented innovation, and together constituting the perfect blend of technical excellence and absolute aesthetic sophistication. It also embodies the merging of the wide variety of skills united within the company, since almost all operations involved in making it – from movement development to machining the sapphire dial-bridge – have been performed in-house. The major innovation featured in the DualTow lies in its single-pusher chronograph function operating thanks to three identically structured planetary gears. Further reinforcing the originality and elegance of this piece, the actual opening and closing of all the chronograph levers evokes that of a flower in motion. And to add an even more exclusive touch of luxury, customers can choose from a broad palette of colors to adorn their watch. The new unique DualTow models will be on show in January 2010 at the Four Seasons Hotel in Geneva, at the same time as the SIHH.


“Belts” that tell the time

Another particularly interesting characteristic of this anniversary piece is that Christophe Claret drew inspiration from caterpillartracked vehicles to devise an ingenious mechanism driving a display of the hours on the left and the minutes on the right. Placed on either side of the watch, two rubber “belts” specially developed for the Manufacture bear numerals with a decidedly high-tech design. Above them, a colored fork fixed to the tourbillon bridge and equipped with a tiny pointed tip creates a symbolic frame serving to read off the time. These notched belts are driven by cylinders placed on either end. To intensify the impression of movement, the design of their sides is directly inspired by the wheel rims of the Bugatti T35 sports car. Inside, a screw-tightening module enables ultra-precise adjustment ensuring optimally smooth operation. In addition to this mechanism, the minute belt houses a fully integrated winding and time-setting system.

The rectangular curved shapes of the DualTow stemmed from a free-flowing exchange of ideas and sketches between Christophe Claret and his team. A genuine feat of horological architecture, the DualTow reveals its entire interior. The DualTow can show many different faces, making each watch truly unique. In tune with the times and the new luxury codes enabling customers to invent their own version of an object, Christophe Claret even offers prospective owners the chance to customize their very own DualTow. Thanks to a “configurator” on its dedicated www.dualtow.ch website, prospective purchasers can play with a broad range of palettes in order to express their own vision of the model they desire to order from a limited series of 68 one-of-a-kind creations.

An exclusive patent has been filed for this entirely original interpretation of the chronograph, in order to defend the peerless technical qualities of the system. The operational mode of this complication ensures the regular rate of the calibre because the torque required is consistently identical, whatever the position (start, stop or reset). Contrary to a classic chronograph, the movement is thus not subject to any major variations in the amplitude of the balance liable to disturb its rating regularity, an advantage that naturally improves its precision.

Building on this successful innovation, Christophe Claret has chosen to further enhance the refinement of this calibre by adding a striking mechanism signalling the chronograph start, stop and reset operations. Enriched by the considerable expertise acquired by the Manufacture in the field of striking mechanisms and musical movements, it rings out with an exceptionally pure, clear tone. The snail-shaped gong is one of the most sophisticated and delicate to develop and produce.

Expressing their unfailing attention to each and every detail, the watchmaker and his team set the finishing touch to the mechanism by equipping it with a chronograph function indicator. The wearer can at any time keep track of its mode of operation.

Playing on a perfectly symmetrical design, the mechanism features chronograph hour and minute counters displayed on a sapphire crystal. Respectively positioned at 11 and 1 o'clock, they complement the chronograph seconds hand occupying the centre of the watch. This technical and powerful presentation leaves enough space at 12 o'clock to reveal the full chronograph activation system, composed of a column wheel surrounded by levers and hammers serving to drive the chronograph functions. The gentle motion of this flurry of chronograph levers is somewhat reminiscent of a flower fluttering in the breeze. In an ultimate refined detail, these elements are fixed to a component connected to the mainplate, specially developed and called a “barillot” in reference to its shape evoking the cylinder of a revolver.